New Mini Panic Biplane
The Outstanding Mini Panic 36" Laser Cut Kit
These are aimed mainly at the Electric market but will fly perfectly well on glow motors
The performance is outstanding. We have perfected spin landings.
The prop hanging is a doddle. Everyone should try one.
The First Motor used was a Perkins EnErG 35/14/1100 running from an 11.1 2000mah pack.
The take off was only a few feet and the aircraft needed only a tiny bit of down trim.
This "Fit in the boot of your car aircraft" performed every bit like its big brother.
SPECIFICATIONS
Wing Span: 36" (915mm) using Four ailerons
Motor: outrunner 35/10 upwards Battery: 1500mah to 2300mah
Speed Controller: 30 amps+ All up weight: Approx 800 grams (1.7lbs)
The kits include pre cut ribs, all fuselage parts cut and flying surfaces supplied are pre cut.
The tail fin and rudder wood is all pre .
The undercarriage is pre bent but not soldered.
Mini E Panic Kit Contents:
These are aimed mainly at the Electric market but will fly perfectly well on glow motors
The performance is outstanding. We have perfected spin landings.
The prop hanging is a doddle. Everyone should try one.
The First Motor used was a Perkins EnErG 35/14/1100 running from an 11.1 2000mah pack.
The take off was only a few feet and the aircraft needed only a tiny bit of down trim.
This "Fit in the boot of your car aircraft" performed every bit like its big brother.
SPECIFICATIONS
Wing Span: 36" (915mm) using Four ailerons
Motor: outrunner 35/10 upwards Battery: 1500mah to 2300mah
Speed Controller: 30 amps+ All up weight: Approx 800 grams (1.7lbs)
The kits include pre cut ribs, all fuselage parts cut and flying surfaces supplied are pre cut.
The tail fin and rudder wood is all pre .
The undercarriage is pre bent but not soldered.
Mini E Panic Kit Contents:
Fuselage F1 - 2 Balsa Fuselage sides.
F2 - 2 Plywood top wing supports (Struts).
F3 - Firewall.
F4 - Plywood Undercarriage support.
F6 - Upper Forward Balsa Sheet.
F7 - Upper Fuselage Sheeting.
F8 - Lower Fuselage Sheeting.
F10 - Balsa battery hatch.
F11 - Stabilizer Fuselage Sheet.
4 Wing Dowels. 2 Ply Dowel Reinforcementsdoublers.
Triangle stock. 1 two part wire undercarriage.
Main Wings: 4 Spars 2 Leading Edges 2 Trailing Edges
Cap Strips 28 Ribs 4 End ribs 4 Leading edge sheets
4 centre sheeting 1 Foam Spacer 2 Wing support struts
4 laser cut ailerons 8 Strut studs
Taliplane Elevator and fin and Rudder
F2 - 2 Plywood top wing supports (Struts).
F3 - Firewall.
F4 - Plywood Undercarriage support.
F6 - Upper Forward Balsa Sheet.
F7 - Upper Fuselage Sheeting.
F8 - Lower Fuselage Sheeting.
F10 - Balsa battery hatch.
F11 - Stabilizer Fuselage Sheet.
4 Wing Dowels. 2 Ply Dowel Reinforcementsdoublers.
Triangle stock. 1 two part wire undercarriage.
Main Wings: 4 Spars 2 Leading Edges 2 Trailing Edges
Cap Strips 28 Ribs 4 End ribs 4 Leading edge sheets
4 centre sheeting 1 Foam Spacer 2 Wing support struts
4 laser cut ailerons 8 Strut studs
Taliplane Elevator and fin and Rudder
Tools and additional equipment required to complete build.
Scalpel or craft knife.
Philips screwdriver.
Ruler.
Tape measure.
Thin cyano super glue.
Pins (for sheeting purposes.
Wheels and collets.
Aileron and elevator horns.
Closed loop system.
Aileron Links.
Covering.
Saddle Clamps.
Gaskin soft bore (not essential but good for cutting lightening holes - See attachment at back of book for lightening holes).
Scrap Balsa leading edge or similar. (for mounting servos).
Push rods.
Servo extensions.
Philips screwdriver.
Ruler.
Tape measure.
Thin cyano super glue.
Pins (for sheeting purposes.
Wheels and collets.
Aileron and elevator horns.
Closed loop system.
Aileron Links.
Covering.
Saddle Clamps.
Gaskin soft bore (not essential but good for cutting lightening holes - See attachment at back of book for lightening holes).
Scrap Balsa leading edge or similar. (for mounting servos).
Push rods.
Servo extensions.
Instructions
Fuselage
(1) Glue in Ply Wing supports (NoF2). Insure that they are flush with the fuselage, to do this lay the Fuselage sides (NoF1) down flat on a board.
Then you can (A) insert (NoF2) insuring it is the correct way around (i.e.. Largest camber to the front) and wick in thin superglue, this is a good method as the part is correctly aligned before gluing, or (B) use thick superglue on part (NoF2) and then press down into the fuselage (again insuring correct orientation) this insures you have a little time to move the part and also gives a better initial bond.
Then you can (A) insert (NoF2) insuring it is the correct way around (i.e.. Largest camber to the front) and wick in thin superglue, this is a good method as the part is correctly aligned before gluing, or (B) use thick superglue on part (NoF2) and then press down into the fuselage (again insuring correct orientation) this insures you have a little time to move the part and also gives a better initial bond.
Note = If you wick super glue into the part it will travel through to the building surface and stick the fuselage to the board, when you lift the part you could damage it.
I use brown grease proof paper (shiny side up) and this just peels off and you can sand down to a good finish later.
I use brown grease proof paper (shiny side up) and this just peels off and you can sand down to a good finish later.

(2) Glue the ply hole reinforcements in place. Line up and wick in thin Super Glue.
At this point you can cut your lightening holes, I left it until the end of this build so I wouldn’t have to cut the triangle balsa again once assembled & in case I broke the fuselage.

 (3) Now get your Firewall (NoF3) aligned right on the front of the fuselage and measure some triangle balsa to fit, bear in mind when you cut this that you have to join it to another triangle piece of balsa on the lower end of the front of the fuselage.
Once cut glue to the firewall, then take your firewall and glue to the fuselage, insuring you maintain an angle of 90%. I suggest that you wick in a small amount of thin super glue then check alignment once happy wick in superglue until you have a sufficient bond.
Once cut glue to the firewall, then take your firewall and glue to the fuselage, insuring you maintain an angle of 90%. I suggest that you wick in a small amount of thin super glue then check alignment once happy wick in superglue until you have a sufficient bond.

Now cut your other piece of triangle balsa to fit the one in the firewall. Bear in mind you will have to cut some wood away on the inside of the triangle where it meets the ply hole reinforcement.
Now cut your other piece of triangle balsa to fit the one in the firewall. Bear in mind you will have to cut some wood away on the inside of the triangle where it meets the ply hole reinforcement.

Measure and cut a length of triangle stock for the upper fuselage, this should be measured from the back of the ply wing supports to the point at where the angle of the fuselage changes.
Then measure your next length of triangle stock from the back of the trailing edge of the wing to the rear of the fuselage (point to note - Make sure that you cut some of the triangle stock away on the inside of the fuselage at the rear to allow the fuselage sides to be pulled together).
Once done glue in place as picture above.
Measure and cut a length of triangle stock for the upper fuselage, this should be measured from the back of the ply wing supports to the point at where the angle of the fuselage changes.
Then measure your next length of triangle stock from the back of the trailing edge of the wing to the rear of the fuselage (point to note - Make sure that you cut some of the triangle stock away on the inside of the fuselage at the rear to allow the fuselage sides to be pulled together).
Once done glue in place as picture above.
(4) Now make a mirror image on the other fuselage obviously missing out the Firewall.

(5) Then join the two half’s together at the firewall insure that the angle stays correct.



(6) Then glue on your ply undercarriage plates (NoF4), one should be flush with the firewall and the other should be flush with the leading edge of the wing, once this has been done glue in your balsa spacer (NoF5).
Bear in mind that when you glue this you could affect the angle of the front of the fuselage, I suggest that you lay the fuselage on its side and measure the gap at the front where the firewall is and insure that it is the same at the back when you glue in the ply plate. This will insure straight building.
Bear in mind that when you glue this you could affect the angle of the front of the fuselage, I suggest that you lay the fuselage on its side and measure the gap at the front where the firewall is and insure that it is the same at the back when you glue in the ply plate. This will insure straight building.
Also there may be a gap between the ply plates and balsa spacers this can be filled with left over cap strip or balsa filler.

(7) Then glue your top front balsa sheet (NoF6) in place again insure the correct angles, make sure that the top fuselage half’s are not leaning inwards.
(7) Then glue your top front balsa sheet (NoF6) in place again insure the correct angles, make sure that the top fuselage half’s are not leaning inwards.

(8) At this point apply glue to the upper rear sheeting (NoF7), pull the fuselage sides in and apply the sheet, you should insure that the sheet butts up against the ply wing supports.
Also insure that the rear half’s of the fuselage are parallel to each other.
(8) At this point apply glue to the upper rear sheeting (NoF7), pull the fuselage sides in and apply the sheet, you should insure that the sheet butts up against the ply wing supports.
Also insure that the rear half’s of the fuselage are parallel to each other.
Then glue the lower sheeting (NoF8) in place insuring that it meets and is flush with the trailing edge of the wing seat.

Observe in lower picture alignment with trailing edge of wing seat.

(9) Once both lower and upper sheeting are glued in place Glue in place the two balsa planks (NoF9) between the ply wing supports, they may need trimming to fit. (PTN: Do not glue these parts in place until the upper and lower sheeting are in place as it will effect the fitting of the upper sheeting.)
Then dry fit your balsa battery hatch (NoF10), its up to you how you make your hatch but the most simple way is detailed below in the following pictures.
(9) Once both lower and upper sheeting are glued in place Glue in place the two balsa planks (NoF9) between the ply wing supports, they may need trimming to fit. (PTN: Do not glue these parts in place until the upper and lower sheeting are in place as it will effect the fitting of the upper sheeting.)
Then dry fit your balsa battery hatch (NoF10), its up to you how you make your hatch but the most simple way is detailed below in the following pictures.

Cut a length of thin ply insuring that it is longer than the hatch by about a 1cm to 1 ½cm at the leading and trailing edge. Also insure that it fits in-between the ply wing supports.

Glue them together.

Trial fit again and sand to fit if necessary.

Once you are happy with the fit cut a length of balsa for a battery floor, fit inside under the hatch. Once happy glue in place. (PTN: Insure that you have enough space to fit your ESC and receiver under the floor and also enough room to fit the wing.)

Try your battery for size.

Last of all, check it closes with the battery inside. When the model is covered just add some Velcro to keep the hatch closed and a Velcro loop to secure the battery or Velcro on the battery floor and battery.

(10) Then the final part is the Stabiliser sheet (NoF11), this sits in between the fuselage half’s and flush to the top of them, it is an extra surface only for the stabilizer.

When it comes to fitting your fin you will have to cut extra room for it in the sheet, you can do this before to get straighter edges, however it will be hidden by the stabilizer.
When it comes to fitting your fin you will have to cut extra room for it in the sheet, you can do this before to get straighter edges, however it will be hidden by the stabilizer.
Once all parts have been glued together sand away excess glue and rough edges.
I would pay attention to the stabilizer seat, if this is slightly off line when you place the stabilizer on it you can sand to insure correct angle.
Once you are happy with the sanding insert your carbon rods to insure a good fit, this will insure you don’t have to work on it later in the build and prevent damage.

Wings
Start by matching the length of the leading edge, trailing edge, spars and sheeting. They should all measure 36” (914mm), a little shorter shouldn’t matter but you should make sure that the materials for both wings are of the same length.
Also check your materials for warping, if any parts are warped phone Avicraft and they will replace them for you.
Also check your materials for warping, if any parts are warped phone Avicraft and they will replace them for you.
All the ribs are identical in shape. (PTN- You should cut holes in ribs which you need the servo wires to pass through).

Use the foam spacer tool (supplied) to position the wing ribs, insure that the ribs which are closest together (servo ribs) are at the root end of the wing (adjust the gap to fit your servos if necessary).

When happy that all the ribs are spaced and aligned start by gluing each tip rib to the spars and leading edge, then using your spacer tool glue the ribs to the leading edge and spar from the outside inwards towards the root.
When happy that all the ribs are spaced and aligned start by gluing each tip rib to the spars and leading edge, then using your spacer tool glue the ribs to the leading edge and spar from the outside inwards towards the root.

I use a steel rule to check that all the trailing end rib tips are in line.

Glue from the out side in towards the root.
Glue from the out side in towards the root.

Once you have done this carefully remove the frame from the spacer, turn around your spacer insuring that the aileron servos are inwards towards the root and install your next set of ribs into the spacer. (PTN: Be aware when you remove the frame that it may have become stuck from superglue run, so be careful when your applying glue and removing the frame.)
Once you have done this carefully remove the frame from the spacer, turn around your spacer insuring that the aileron servos are inwards towards the root and install your next set of ribs into the spacer. (PTN: Be aware when you remove the frame that it may have become stuck from superglue run, so be careful when your applying glue and removing the frame.)



Then again glue from the out side in towards the root.



Once the other half is completed remove from the foam spacer, insure now that you glue in your centre rib. You can do this before however to get correct spacing I find this the best method to correctly measure the gap.



Once happy glue Into position.

Now glue in the lower spar, insuring that you do not build in a warp.
Now glue in the lower spar, insuring that you do not build in a warp.

Now glue in place your trailing edge. Insure that this is straight when gluing.

Now get your webbing (supplied in the bag).
Now get your webbing (supplied in the bag).

Glue the webbing in place insuring that the rib root tips are all aligned, I use balsa blocks under the trailing edge doing this to avoid warping.
Glue the webbing in place insuring that the rib root tips are all aligned, I use balsa blocks under the trailing edge doing this to avoid warping.

Once the webbing has been glued in place check the wing for alignment, do not worry if there is a slight warp in it yet as there are things that can be done.
Once the webbing has been glued in place check the wing for alignment, do not worry if there is a slight warp in it yet as there are things that can be done.
When your happy you can begin doing your leading edge sheet, butt up your sheet against the leading edge (will be sitting proud of the ribs) the sheet shouldn’t have any gaps. Hold sheet in position and run glue along the joint insuring a good fit.

Once the glue has set tape the sheeting down working from the inside out and insure that it stays secure. (PTN- Be careful not to crack the sheeting as it will be stiff).
Once the glue has set tape the sheeting down working from the inside out and insure that it stays secure. (PTN- Be careful not to crack the sheeting as it will be stiff).

Glue each rib individually and wait until the glue has set before moving to the next rib, start at the centre rib and work outwards, towards the tips.
Glue each rib individually and wait until the glue has set before moving to the next rib, start at the centre rib and work outwards, towards the tips.
Once complete insure all the tape is removed before starting the other sheeting.

For the other sheet there are two options (A) glue the sheet to the leading edge, tape down and then prick holes through the sheet into the ribs with a pin. Then use thin super glue and wick it in through the holes, this is an effective method, or (B) Glue the sheet to the leading edge and apply pva glue to the contact surfaces. Then quickly apply the tape insuring all surfaces are in contact with no gaps, once the glue has set carefully remove the tape.
This method is good as you can move the wing whilst the glue is wet and even take out warps by using weight.
This method is good as you can move the wing whilst the glue is wet and even take out warps by using weight.



Removing a twist/ warp with weight.

Once you are happy with the sheeting apply your trailing edge strips insuring that they are straight.
Once you are happy with the sheeting apply your trailing edge strips insuring that they are straight.

Get the deck sheeting and check they are all the same size.

Make a template insuring that the trailing area will be wide enough to cover the three ribs and also to accommodate the elastic bands. Cut this out and draw it onto the other three sheets.
Make a template insuring that the trailing area will be wide enough to cover the three ribs and also to accommodate the elastic bands. Cut this out and draw it onto the other three sheets.

When your happy with the shape, size it to the trailing edge strip and cut to fit. (PTN - Cut a little oversize this insures a good fit, glue the leading edge sheet in place then apply glue to the trailing edge, then push down).
Turn the wing over and apply glue to ribs from the inside.
Turn the wing over and apply glue to ribs from the inside.

Before you apply the next sheet make a hole for the servo wires and apply glue to the centre rib, apply sheet the same as the previous sheet. Turn over and apply glue to the two accessible ribs.
Before you apply the next sheet make a hole for the servo wires and apply glue to the centre rib, apply sheet the same as the previous sheet. Turn over and apply glue to the two accessible ribs.

Then apply your cap strips, again cut a little over size, these are easy to glue from either side.

Sand the end ribs and apply the balsa end ribs, then sand to a nice finish.


So now you have your bottom wing completed the ailerons are already laser cut and only need their tips gluing in place.
So now you have your bottom wing completed the ailerons are already laser cut and only need their tips gluing in place.

Repeat the same process for the top wing just miss out two ribs (one either side) as shown in the photo below. Also do not cut a hole for the servo wires in the decking.

Preparing the fin, stabilizer and control surfaces.
Preparing the fin, stabilizer and control surfaces.
Now you have made your fuselage and wings it’s a good time to size the wings in the saddles, if they are not a flush fit check the saddles to see if you have any balsa parts such as triangle stock protruding into the saddle.
If so trim back and refit.
Also you may need to sand your leading edge or trailing edge back to fit depending on what’s out, generally it’s a very good fit.
If so trim back and refit.
Also you may need to sand your leading edge or trailing edge back to fit depending on what’s out, generally it’s a very good fit.

Now take your stabilizer and place it on the tail sheet, check that it is straight with an equal distance from each tip to the working surface and that it is aligned correctly.
If there is a slight slant you may have to sand the seat to get a more level fit.
Next get your fin, this will not fit initially. Place it on top of the stab and work out how much you need to cut away to fit.
If there is a slight slant you may have to sand the seat to get a more level fit.
Next get your fin, this will not fit initially. Place it on top of the stab and work out how much you need to cut away to fit.

Get a pen and mark as accurately as you can the shape.
Get a pen and mark as accurately as you can the shape.


Once happy cut balsa away.

Now trial fit them again, what you will find is there will be a small gap, this should be expected as the bottom of the fin is wider than the top. At this stage you may wish to get your rudder and size it with your fin, you may find that the fin is slightly taller than the rudder and will need trimming back.
Ideally you want the top of the fin to be inline with the top of the rudder and the bottom of the rudder just to have a little clearance from the stabilizer say 2mm.
Ideally you want the top of the fin to be inline with the top of the rudder and the bottom of the rudder just to have a little clearance from the stabilizer say 2mm.

Your stabilizer, fin, rudder, elevator and ailerons are not shaped to be hinged. You will need to shape the leading edge of the control surface, or the trailing edge of the stabilizer, fin or wings.
Your stabilizer, fin, rudder, elevator and ailerons are not shaped to be hinged. You will need to shape the leading edge of the control surface, or the trailing edge of the stabilizer, fin or wings.
The Elevator is more difficult to sand so the trailing edge of the stabilizer should be sanded (you can do both of these surfaces, just take care).
Take a measurement of how thick the stabilizer balsa is (for example 4mm) then half that measurement. Draw a straight line of that measurement onto the trailing edge of the stabilizer, flip the stabilizer over and repeat the process.
Take a measurement of how thick the stabilizer balsa is (for example 4mm) then half that measurement. Draw a straight line of that measurement onto the trailing edge of the stabilizer, flip the stabilizer over and repeat the process.

Once you are happy that your measurements are correct and straight, sand at a 45% angle, each stroke going the full length of the surface until you hit the drawn line.
Flip over and repeat the process, once done you should have a point in the middle, this should be sufficient for the movement the surface requires.

Flip over and repeat the process, once done you should have a point in the middle, this should be sufficient for the movement the surface requires.

Then simply repeat the process for the fin. (You can also do the same process on the rudder)


If you wish to make lightening holes in the stabilizer you should make a template of half the wing and cut it out, this will become more apparent later.


Take your Gaskin Soft Bore/ hole cutter and choose where you want your holes. Bear in mind you shouldn’t do it to close to the trailing edge because it will weaken your hinges or too close to the leading edge in case you knock it on a rough landing it could break the surface.
(PTN: Do not cut holes in the centre either this could greatly effect the strength of the stabilizer and also no one will be able to see it very well anyway).
(PTN: Do not cut holes in the centre either this could greatly effect the strength of the stabilizer and also no one will be able to see it very well anyway).


Once you have made your holes take your template and align under the stab, mark holes with a pen/ pencil.

Transfer your template to the other wing half. Get your hole cutter and make impressions through the paper, remove the paper and cut your holes.

The result should be a mirror image.
The leading edge of your stabilizer and fin can also be sanded/ rounded to make them more pleasing to the eye.
The leading edge of your stabilizer and fin can also be sanded/ rounded to make them more pleasing to the eye.

Now take your control surfaces and glue the loose balsa pieces in place, sand the ailerons (making sure they are the right way around i.e.. Where the control horns are mounted) and rudder for hinging, the elevator can be done using the method I explained previously but would not be as accurate.
Now take your control surfaces and glue the loose balsa pieces in place, sand the ailerons (making sure they are the right way around i.e.. Where the control horns are mounted) and rudder for hinging, the elevator can be done using the method I explained previously but would not be as accurate.

Dry fitting Motor, ESC, Servos
Take your motor mount and use it as a template to draw the holes for the bobbins, cooling hole and wires.

As so.

Drill your holes, you may need a large drill bit or hole opener for the cooling and wire holes.
Drill your holes, you may need a large drill bit or hole opener for the cooling and wire holes.


To fit the bobbins, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bobbin bolt. Then simply screw in the bobbin as you would a screw or bolt - That’s it!.
When it comes to fitting them permanently just add a little thin super glue to strengthen the thread.
To fit the bobbins, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bobbin bolt. Then simply screw in the bobbin as you would a screw or bolt - That’s it!.
When it comes to fitting them permanently just add a little thin super glue to strengthen the thread.


Insure the hole for your wires can accommodate the plug/ plugs that you are using.

Once your motor is installed fit your ESC, here you can see a slot which has been cut in the battery floor this is for ease of attachment to the battery. You could just make a shorter length of battery floor.
Also bear in mind at this stage that you have to have enough room for your receiver on this floor and enough room to accommodate the wing.
(PTN: If you can extend your motor wires so they extend out into the wing opening, do so. This set up requires that you put the plugs together with pliers so you could damage the wing seat.)
Also bear in mind at this stage that you have to have enough room for your receiver on this floor and enough room to accommodate the wing.
(PTN: If you can extend your motor wires so they extend out into the wing opening, do so. This set up requires that you put the plugs together with pliers so you could damage the wing seat.)

Now the wing servos. This is a tight area and you must take care not to damage the wing, also consider the size of the servo to the wing.
When you install it make sure that the bottom of the servo is not protruding through the ribs, if it is when you install it after covering you may break the film or wing ribs.
Now the wing servos. This is a tight area and you must take care not to damage the wing, also consider the size of the servo to the wing.
When you install it make sure that the bottom of the servo is not protruding through the ribs, if it is when you install it after covering you may break the film or wing ribs.
Place the servo in-between the ribs, then cut some balsa (old leading edge or similar), place the first piece of balsa flush to the webbing and the next piece just slightly back from the servos so you can remove it.
Position your servo, when you are happy wick in a drop of thin glue on each piece of balsa. Mark the holes and carefully remove the servo.
Position your servo, when you are happy wick in a drop of thin glue on each piece of balsa. Mark the holes and carefully remove the servo.

Then glue your balsa in place so its secure, you may then drill your holes (this can/ should be done before hand if possible, it has only been done this way for the best fit).
Insure that you put a piece of cap strip along the trailing edge of the servo for the film to adhere to.
Insure that you put a piece of cap strip along the trailing edge of the servo for the film to adhere to.

Repeat the process on the other side of the wing.
(PTN: Insure that the servo horns are on the opposite side from the hole in the sheet which has been made for servo wires).
Repeat the process on the other side of the wing.
(PTN: Insure that the servo horns are on the opposite side from the hole in the sheet which has been made for servo wires).

Below is a photo of the cap strip glued in place at the trailing end of the servo.

Now to installing the fuselage servo’s, now you can always choose your own method for this. For this model the servo’s have been mounted in a way where they can get the most direct route to the control surface‘s.
Start by cutting your rails to the correct size.
Now to installing the fuselage servo’s, now you can always choose your own method for this. For this model the servo’s have been mounted in a way where they can get the most direct route to the control surface‘s.
Start by cutting your rails to the correct size.

Then dry fit your rails and dry install your servo, mark up your holes to be drilled for the screws. Remove the servo and rails again and drill the holes for the screws.
Refit one rail (always consider accessibility when fitting the rails i.e.. Will I be able to access this with a screwdriver?) and glue in place, then fit your servo and slide the other rail underneath the servo screw mount.
Glue this in place, once both the rails are in place install the screws in your servo. (You can remove later and wick in thin super glue to increase the strength of the thread).
Refit one rail (always consider accessibility when fitting the rails i.e.. Will I be able to access this with a screwdriver?) and glue in place, then fit your servo and slide the other rail underneath the servo screw mount.
Glue this in place, once both the rails are in place install the screws in your servo. (You can remove later and wick in thin super glue to increase the strength of the thread).


Now you have the rudder servo in place you can concentrate on the elevator servo. (Things to consider, the rudder servo is mounted flush to the floor respective to us or roof in the plane. This is the most direct route to the rudder).
When mounting the elevator servo make sure it is above the rudder servo, again this will be the most direct route, I simply glued some rails to the side of the fuselage for this and mounted the servo as per the rudder servo.
(PTN : The elevator servo has room to move and so does the rudder servo.
Insuring the servos can make their complete travel and that they are secure are the most important things to consider when mounting them).
When mounting the elevator servo make sure it is above the rudder servo, again this will be the most direct route, I simply glued some rails to the side of the fuselage for this and mounted the servo as per the rudder servo.
(PTN : The elevator servo has room to move and so does the rudder servo.
Insuring the servos can make their complete travel and that they are secure are the most important things to consider when mounting them).

Mounting and soldering the undercarriage
Mounting and soldering the undercarriage

First dry fit and mark your holes with a pen, then drill out your holes.

Fix your saddle clamps in place, take care when you do this not to apply too much force as you could break the ply plates, drill big enough diameter holes so you don’t have to apply as much force.
Fix your saddle clamps in place, take care when you do this not to apply too much force as you could break the ply plates, drill big enough diameter holes so you don’t have to apply as much force.

The undercarriage has fuel tube on its tips to prevent it damaging then kit when packed.
It is also a good little tool, slide the tube over one of the legs onto the other leg support to hold things in place when you are soldering.
Leaving the other leg free to sold, do not solder the same leg with the tube on as you could start a fire.
It is also a good little tool, slide the tube over one of the legs onto the other leg support to hold things in place when you are soldering.
Leaving the other leg free to sold, do not solder the same leg with the tube on as you could start a fire.

Apply heat to the other leg, this should be held in place by the fuel tube on the other side.
Then apply your solder to the metal not the iron, once you have enough solder on hold the legs together with pliers and remove the iron.
Keep the pliers on until the solder has cooled enough to maintain hold.
Then remove the fuel tube on the other leg and repeat the process.
Apply heat to the other leg, this should be held in place by the fuel tube on the other side.
Then apply your solder to the metal not the iron, once you have enough solder on hold the legs together with pliers and remove the iron.
Keep the pliers on until the solder has cooled enough to maintain hold.
Then remove the fuel tube on the other leg and repeat the process.

Slide on your inner collets and tighten.

Then slide on your wheels and the other collets, insure the wheel has enough room to freely move and tighten the collet.
Then slide on your wheels and the other collets, insure the wheel has enough room to freely move and tighten the collet.

The finished product.

Covering, installing pushrods, ball links and aileron connectors
Covering, installing pushrods, ball links and aileron connectors
So before covering the fuselage you will need to remove your Motor and undercarriage. Remember to add the extra pieces of balsa in the lightening holes, this will give the film more surface to adhere to.

The cut a piece of film slightly over size of one surface side of the fuselage (approximately 1cm or 5mm depending on how confident you are at covering.).
Iron one edge on (the top edge for instance), then keeping the film tight with the other hand iron gradually from the top down insuring that all bubbles are pushed out and that there are no creases. If you get a crease you can turn the iron temperature up and this will tighten the film even more, once happy iron the edges down as these will over lap with the other covering sheets. (PTN - If you choose to turn the temperature up just be aware that you can burn/ melt the film. Trial iron pieces of covering onto scrap wood and find out your max and minimum temperatures, you should apply the film with gentle heat, enough to activate the adhesive and then once in place with no problems turn the temperature up and tighten the film. Also be careful when ironing over the lightening holes as these could pop.)
This process should be repeated for the rest of the fuselage insuring that the films overlap each other.
Iron one edge on (the top edge for instance), then keeping the film tight with the other hand iron gradually from the top down insuring that all bubbles are pushed out and that there are no creases. If you get a crease you can turn the iron temperature up and this will tighten the film even more, once happy iron the edges down as these will over lap with the other covering sheets. (PTN - If you choose to turn the temperature up just be aware that you can burn/ melt the film. Trial iron pieces of covering onto scrap wood and find out your max and minimum temperatures, you should apply the film with gentle heat, enough to activate the adhesive and then once in place with no problems turn the temperature up and tighten the film. Also be careful when ironing over the lightening holes as these could pop.)
This process should be repeated for the rest of the fuselage insuring that the films overlap each other.

In this photo you can see that the wing supports are not covered, this is because the iron cant really fit in here, so I suggest that you cover these before gluing them in as it will make life easier for you. (PTN - Don not cover surfaces which are to be glued, or remove the film prior to covering.)

Now cover the Stabiliser as you would the fuselage.
Now cover the Stabiliser as you would the fuselage.

Leave the front contact surface as this has to be glued to the fuselage.

Elevator covered.
Elevator covered.

Now to the hinging, this is quite simple, slot a scalpel in the centre of the surface you are wishing to hinge and open the slot wide and deep enough for the hinge.
Insert your hinge’s in one surface how ever many you think you need, I think three are more than enough, then wick in thin superglue and flex the hinge’s.
(PTN - Be aware when cutting hinges that you do not cut through to the ends of the surface or into other holes which may need to be used for other things, i.e.. Control horns).
Insert your hinge’s in one surface how ever many you think you need, I think three are more than enough, then wick in thin superglue and flex the hinge’s.
(PTN - Be aware when cutting hinges that you do not cut through to the ends of the surface or into other holes which may need to be used for other things, i.e.. Control horns).

Once one surface is hinged line up the surfaces and make marks for the hinges, slot the hinges.
Push the surfaces together until the hinges are deep enough to maintain a good gluing surface and move freely. Then bend/ flex the surfaces and wick in thin superglue to the remaining hinges.

Push the surfaces together until the hinges are deep enough to maintain a good gluing surface and move freely. Then bend/ flex the surfaces and wick in thin superglue to the remaining hinges.

Once you have done this size up your stabiliser and elevator with the stabilizer sheet on the fuselage and mark the area where it sits, cut the film so you have a gluing surface. (PTN - Do not just cut through the film into the balsa as this will effect the strength of the stabiliser. The best way is to lift the film and cut it or slide paper underneath from one end)

Now line up your stabiliser with the stabilizer sheeting and the top rear sheeting, insure all is straight and wick in thin super glue where the stabiliser butts up against the rear sheeting. This will take a lot of glue don’t over do it as it will just keep taking it.
Let the glue set and turn over the fuselage, now wick in glue from the rear and sides insuring everything is in contact.
Now line up your stabiliser with the stabilizer sheeting and the top rear sheeting, insure all is straight and wick in thin super glue where the stabiliser butts up against the rear sheeting. This will take a lot of glue don’t over do it as it will just keep taking it.
Let the glue set and turn over the fuselage, now wick in glue from the rear and sides insuring everything is in contact.

Now move onto your fin and rudder, this is covered the same as the stabiliser and elevator. You will need to cut out a small opening for the loop system horns.

This is hinged the same way as the stabiliser and elevator, be careful when installing your hinges as you could push some balsa into the film, not a major problem but doesn’t look great.
Also push in your loop system horn and glue in place.
This is hinged the same way as the stabiliser and elevator, be careful when installing your hinges as you could push some balsa into the film, not a major problem but doesn’t look great.
Also push in your loop system horn and glue in place.

Push your complete fin and rudder into the fin slot, align so the rudder has enough room to move and is touching the bottom of the fuselage. Once you are happy that it is in line just wick in thin super glue this will travel to the bottom of the fin and secure the sides as well.

Here are the holes which I drilled before covering these are for the tubes which will accommodate the loop system.
Here are the holes which I drilled before covering these are for the tubes which will accommodate the loop system.

Insure the tubes fit and are at a good angle for the system (ideally you don’t want to much friction, rubbing etc..).

Then use a thin piece of metal or a heavy needle and attach it to thread, pass the thread through the hole and pull out of the wing exit, this is quite fiddly.
Glue the thread to the metal loop system wire and pull back through the hole, repeat the process for the other hole.
Glue the tubes in place when happy with the angle.
Then use a thin piece of metal or a heavy needle and attach it to thread, pass the thread through the hole and pull out of the wing exit, this is quite fiddly.
Glue the thread to the metal loop system wire and pull back through the hole, repeat the process for the other hole.
Glue the tubes in place when happy with the angle.

Connect the two wires hanging out of the wing seat to a servo arm like below and attach the arm to the servo.

Then slide your crimps up the wire to the tubes, and attach your clevises, push the other end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp when tight.
Here you can see the angle of the tubes is quite high, ideally you can lower this but this works well.
Then slide your crimps up the wire to the tubes, and attach your clevises, push the other end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp when tight.
Here you can see the angle of the tubes is quite high, ideally you can lower this but this works well.

The finished fuselage.

Cover your wings in the same manner as the fuselage, start at the leading edge and work back with the iron. You will need to pull the film tighter going over the voids where the ribs are.
Cover your wings in the same manner as the fuselage, start at the leading edge and work back with the iron. You will need to pull the film tighter going over the voids where the ribs are.

Cover your ailerons.

Cut slots for the hinges and be aware of what your going through, you may need to cut the hinges shorter so they do not protrude through the hingeing surface.
Hinge and glue.
Cut slots for the hinges and be aware of what your going through, you may need to cut the hinges shorter so they do not protrude through the hingeing surface.
Hinge and glue.

Repeat the process for both wings. (PTN - Remember you have to install servos in the lower so I suggest that before you cover them you run thread through the track of where your servo wires have to travel through the holes and tape in place at the hole in the centre of the sheeting. When covered just cut open the servo bays and tie the thread to the servo connectors and pull through the servo wires and then install your servos.)
Now move onto your wing supports and cover in the same manner as before.
Now move onto your wing supports and cover in the same manner as before.

Then insure you have turned them around as they would be if they were hiolding the wings together.
Get your press studs and make an impression with them on the film by pushing them down, remove the stud and cut the film away where the impression was made.
Now get your press stud and push down into the area hwere you removed the film with pliars, once there is sufficient depth to maintain a good grip glue in place.
I used super glue but you can use epoxy and it would probably be stronger for this application.
(PTN - Avicraft use the female connectors for the struts, however it does work this way as well.)
Then insure you have turned them around as they would be if they were hiolding the wings together.
Get your press studs and make an impression with them on the film by pushing them down, remove the stud and cut the film away where the impression was made.
Now get your press stud and push down into the area hwere you removed the film with pliars, once there is sufficient depth to maintain a good grip glue in place.
I used super glue but you can use epoxy and it would probably be stronger for this application.
(PTN - Avicraft use the female connectors for the struts, however it does work this way as well.)

That’s it for the covering. To connect your struts coonect the wings to the fuselage with elastic bands, insure they are aligned properly and then take your struts and make impressions on the end ribs.
To apply the studs repeat the process used for the struts.
To apply the studs repeat the process used for the struts.

Now to the fitting of the aileron tubes, balls and links.
(PTN - Trim the balls so they are completely round, take away rough protruding edge’s.)
(PTN - Trim the balls so they are completely round, take away rough protruding edge’s.)

The ball link threads are too small for the carbon rods, there are many ways you can fit the ball link thread to the tube.
You can do it the way that Avicraft suggest which is = fill one end of the hole of the tube with epoxy and put your thread in there let the epoxy set and simply unscrew the thread.
The ball link threads are too small for the carbon rods, there are many ways you can fit the ball link thread to the tube.
You can do it the way that Avicraft suggest which is = fill one end of the hole of the tube with epoxy and put your thread in there let the epoxy set and simply unscrew the thread.
I have left a pictorial of how I have done it below.
Find a snake that fit’s the hole in the carbon or as close to, drill your thread in and out of the snake until it is loose enough to screw and unscrew by hand.
Find a snake that fit’s the hole in the carbon or as close to, drill your thread in and out of the snake until it is loose enough to screw and unscrew by hand.

Then cut the snake to the length of the thread, now insert the thread and snake into the carbon tube, you may need to sand the snake down a little.

Once you have dry fitted the snake into the carbon tube and are happy with the fit, glue in place.
Once you have dry fitted the snake into the carbon tube and are happy with the fit, glue in place.

Repeat the process for the rest of the tubes. (PTN - Make sure all the tubes are of the same length.)

Fit the balls to the tubes.
Fit the balls to the tubes.

Dry fit one rod in the position below, make impressions in upper and lower ailerons.

Cut away the film from the impression and drill a small shallow pilot hole, then open it up to the diameter of the ball with a larger bit.
Cut away the film from the impression and drill a small shallow pilot hole, then open it up to the diameter of the ball with a larger bit.

Fit one ball to the aileron and make sure it is at the right angle, Avicraft can supply a diagram if needed. Once happy with the angle wick in a drop of thin super glue.
(PTN - Avicraft use epoxy for this to move the ball if needed)
You can see in the photo below that it is set at a right angle.
(PTN - Avicraft use epoxy for this to move the ball if needed)
You can see in the photo below that it is set at a right angle.

Repeat the process for the top aileron.
Repeat the process for the top aileron.

Then just mirror the process for the other wing. (PTN - Make sure both ailerons are set at equal deflection and also make sure that they are set slightly pointing upwards from the core of the wing.)

Back tracking a little, hers a picture of the servo’s and linkages in the wing.
This is pretty simple and doesn’t need too much detail. The rods connecting the clevises are simply threaded rod.
Back tracking a little, hers a picture of the servo’s and linkages in the wing.
This is pretty simple and doesn’t need too much detail. The rods connecting the clevises are simply threaded rod.

The Elevator pushrod is again carbon and can be fitted in the same manner as the aileron connectors (with clevises instead of balls obviously).

Dry fit the elevator horn, make sure that you trim some of the triangle stock back so the horn can move freely within the opening of the rear of the fuselage.
You also have to offset the horn to go one side of the rudder which sits inside of the fuselage.
Dry fit the elevator horn, make sure that you trim some of the triangle stock back so the horn can move freely within the opening of the rear of the fuselage.
You also have to offset the horn to go one side of the rudder which sits inside of the fuselage.

Trim the bottom of the horn so it’s a better fit as well, this stops it from catching when your using larger control movements.

Then fit your horn and pass the pushrod through the fuselage and connect the clevis to the horn.
Then fit your horn and pass the pushrod through the fuselage and connect the clevis to the horn.

Now you can correctly size your pushrod, score where you want to cut with a blade.
Then remove and cut away excess carbon tube.
Then remove and cut away excess carbon tube.

Then fit your threaded rod and clevis and adjust and fit to servo.
Then fit your threaded rod and clevis and adjust and fit to servo.

On the final steps now, fit your Velcro in the battery hatch.
Before applying the Velcro smooth out super glue on the wood and rub in with plastic until its set and its shiny this will give the Velcro a stronger bond and prevent the wood getting damaged.
Then apply your Velcro loop, place a strip of Velcro on top of this and some Velcro to your battery and that’s it. The battery will not slide and will not come out.
Before applying the Velcro smooth out super glue on the wood and rub in with plastic until its set and its shiny this will give the Velcro a stronger bond and prevent the wood getting damaged.
Then apply your Velcro loop, place a strip of Velcro on top of this and some Velcro to your battery and that’s it. The battery will not slide and will not come out.

One extra I added was to add some large snake in-between the ply wing seat, this keeps things aligned and prevents damage when putting your wing on and even movement in flight.
You can also double the ply to stop the fine tips getting damaged but with good care this shouldn’t happen.
One extra I added was to add some large snake in-between the ply wing seat, this keeps things aligned and prevents damage when putting your wing on and even movement in flight.
You can also double the ply to stop the fine tips getting damaged but with good care this shouldn’t happen.

All you have to do now is install your receiver and fly.
I have left some pictures of the plane below and will leave a review on Avicrafts website, once I have flown it I will do a flight review as well.
I have left some pictures of the plane below and will leave a review on Avicrafts website, once I have flown it I will do a flight review as well.
Happy flying and if you have any problems with building this plane or any queries feel free to contact them, they will be happy to help.




EXTRA’S
Ply wing supports
This part doesent have to be covered but if you wish to cover it I suggest this - Cover the support in the colour of your choice prior to glueing the part in the fuselage, otherwise it will be a real struggle when the model is assembled.
Make sure you don’t cover or remove the covering where you need to glue the surfaces together.
Make sure you don’t cover or remove the covering where you need to glue the surfaces together.
On the next page are additional fitting instructions from Avicraft.0For the building instructions, please click here. (You should click save rather than open)
As the mini Panic has proved to be so succesfull we now also produce a 1 meter
Mini Moronic with the intention of running some fun fly comps for "1 Meter and under"
electric flight.
Mini Frantics also available on request produced in small batchesn available.
See this years nationals for new 1 meter competition rules
Available via our online shop, Click here to view
As the mini Panic has proved to be so succesfull we now also produce a 1 meter
Mini Moronic with the intention of running some fun fly comps for "1 Meter and under"
electric flight.
Mini Frantics also available on request produced in small batchesn available.
See this years nationals for new 1 meter competition rules
Available via our online shop, Click here to view
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