Mini Frantic/Moronic Instructions
Note: The construction method used below used only thin cyano (superglue).
Wing construction
Begin by matching and trimming if needed the length of the following
3/8 square leading edge: tapered trailing edge: spruce spars :
1/16 front and rear wing sheeting. The nominal length is 36” or 914mm but slightly shorter is not a problem.
All the wing ribs are the same except or the tip capping ribs that are fitted after the wing has been constructed and sheeted.
You will need to make holes in 7 of the centre ribs for the servo leads to pass through. You may wish to add some extra lightness by making holes in all the ribs.
The hole should be at least 10mm and about 10mm behind the spar notch
There are 7 ribs either side and one in the middle6 ribs are spaced equally from the tip to the centre with an extra rib added 2 or 3 bays out for the aileron servos
A foam spacer is supplied to help space bthe ribs.
It is best to dry assemble the wing is before glueing.
I find it best to lay an 1/8 spar onto a board then place the ribs along the spar working from both tips toward the centre (At this point I use a foam rib tool to space the ribs out with the closely grouped ribs nearer to the middle).
The close spaced ribs are for the aileron servos.
Adjust if your servos don’t fit the space available.
Add a final rib between the middle ribs then add the other spar.
Tape the 3/8 leading edge in place and the small tapered trailing edge
Start glueing both tip ribs to the spars and leading edge. Work your way along the wing towards the centre from both ends. Add 1/16 sheer webs either side of each rib except the outside of the tip rib.
Keep checking during the construction that the wing is perfectly true and not twisted: a twist will may affect the models flying.
Glue the top leading sheeting to the leading edge making sure it is touching the rib as well, and then ease the sheeting into place (you can spray with water if this helps) tape the sheeting down. When held in place, glue from the centre out; one rib at a time.
Add servo mounting blocks (not supplied) Finally sand the wing smooth. Then shape the leading edge to follow the contour of the ribs.
Remove the tape and check for any twist in the wing. Repeat for the lower sheeting
Place the trailing edge sheeting on to a flat surface glue the three trailing edge strips in place Glue centre sheeting in place ( this can be left square but looks better and is stronger if a concave curve is added either side).
Add Cap strips to the ribs then glue to the vertical and horizontal wing tip ribs in place.
Dry assemble the fuselage with tape before glueing.
The bulk head number 3 fits between the fuselage as does the tailplane seat part 11
Once you are happy that all fits then mark the sheeting where you are going to add lightning holes if required.
Start the fuselage by cutting appropriate lightning holes in the sides and upper and lower sheeting ( if you wish). (See picture).
Glue in the triangular corner reinforcing to the inside edges of the fuselage halfs.
This part is not optional as it greatly increases the strength.
Glue the front plywood bulkhead at 90 degrees to one fuselage side.
Once this has been glued then you should glue the bulkhead to the other side of the fuselage.
Glue the lower plywood undercarriage blocks No5 and balsa spacer No 6.
Now add the upper front sheeting.
Take care to keep the fuselage sides parallel at this stage.
You should now pull together the sides of the fuselage and add part number 11.
Add the upper and lower rear sheeting. The upper rear sheeting should finish at the front of part number 11 the lower sheeting should butt up to the back of the fuselage sides.
Add lower fuselage sheeting as shown leaving access for battery.
You may make a hatch or leave open for better cooling.
Sand the fuselage to prepare it for the covering stage. If you have not added holes you may wish to round off the back of the fuselage,
See picture for lightning holes.
Tail plane construction
Take the sheet tail plane and round the leading edge. Also, bevel the rear edge to allow plenty of elevator movement. Lightening holes may be cut into the tail plane at this stage.the elevator requires light sanding and a bevel being sanded on the front.
Fin and Rudder assembly
The fin and rudder just need a bevel added to both Bevel the hinge line, so that there is plenty of movement available. Take the fin and round its leading edge and bevel its hinge line for the same reason. Trial fit everything: The fin should slot through the fuselage and glue to the inside of the lower sheeting, without forgetting to allow ample gap between the bottom on the rudder and the top of the tail plane, even when covered. The slots in the upper sheeting and the tail plane are not cut so that the fin slots in without adjustment, they should need enlarging slightly.
FOR THE FRANTIC The centre of Gravity should be set at approx 2 3/4 back from the leading edge.For The moronic the c of g should be aprox 2 1/4 back fromthe leading edge

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